Which New Yorker writer reported Dominic Bellissimo's Buffalo wing story in 1980?

Calvin Trillin was the New Yorker writer who reported Dominic Bellissimo's Buffalo wing story in 1980.

Trillin published “An Attempt To Compile A Short History of the Buffalo Chicken Wing” in The New Yorker on August 25, 1980. The article helped preserve Dominic's account that his mother, Teressa Bellissimo, created the dish at the Anchor Bar after Dominic was tending bar and customers needed something to eat.

In the version quoted by Trillin, the timing mattered because it was Friday night and many mostly Catholic patrons could eat meat again after midnight. Dominic said people were buying drinks, so he wanted to offer them something special. He attributed the idea of deep-frying the wings and coating them in hot sauce to his mother.

Trillin's account is important but does not settle the wider invention debate. Other claims credit different circumstances at the Anchor Bar, and John Young separately promoted an earlier style of sauced chicken wings in Buffalo. The 1980 article is therefore evidence for one family narrative, not unanimous proof of a single origin.