The traditional Greek dish of lamb slow-cooked in a sealed clay pot is kleftiko. The name is linked to the klephts, Greek brigands and resistance fighters who operated during the centuries of Ottoman rule.
According to the traditional story, the klephts cooked stolen lamb in covered pits or underground ovens to conceal smoke from pursuing authorities. Sealing the meat helped retain moisture and allowed it to roast slowly until exceptionally tender. The name comes from the Greek root klepto, meaning “to steal,” which is also related to words such as kleptocracy.
Modern kleftiko is commonly prepared in an oven, often wrapped in parchment paper or sealed in another heatproof covering. Lamb is usually paired with potatoes, and cooks may add onions, peppers, herbs, lemon, or cheese. The sealed cooking method is the defining idea, even though recipes vary in their exact vessel.
Kleftiko is not kokoretsi, which is made from seasoned offal, or giouvetsi, a baked meat-and-orzo dish. It is also popular in Cyprus, where it has its own culinary traditions.